Understanding how to date vintage clothing is like putting together the pieces of a giant (but gorgeous!) puzzle. This article will help you understand how a union label’s design speaks to the authentic age of your vintage garment or accessory.
Most vintage lovers would recognize the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union (ILGWU) label, found in women’s vintage clothing from as early as the 1920s. But there are more union labels to be found in vintage clothing than just that of the ILGWU.
There are labels for millinery (hat) unions, men’s clothing unions and other unions which made women’s clothing and suiting during the 20th century. These were the unions that helped to not only influence the history of American fashion, but the legalization of fair working conditions for the hundreds of thousands of individuals who worked these factory jobs.
Keep reading after the jump to learn more about seven American unions and how to use their label design to help date your vintage garment!
This is not a complete guide to every single union label known to clothing and textile production — but it does cover the largest unions and therefore, the labels you’re most likely to see when examining the interior of your vintage garments.
Visit my article for 13 tips on dating vintage clothing labels!
Do you have a vintage union label that you need help identifying? I’d love to see it and figure out its origin and era!
Send me an email or leave a comment below the post for help dating your vintage clothing, or by saying hello on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram or by subscribing to my newsletter!
xx, SD
UNION LABELS FOR HATS
Source: (left) 4u2own21 on Ebay (right) New York Wanderer
WHEN USED: 1885 to 1934
LOOK FOR … a union label by The United Hatters of North America (UHNA). The label was trademarked in 1915 but was first used in 1885.
WHEN USED: 1934-1983
LOOK FOR … “United Hatters Cap & Millinery Wrks” on top of a globe and handshake design with “Int Union” below.
The key difference between this label and older versions is a production number (“785641”) and IN U.S.A. with a small “6” next to what looks like a squished globe.
UNION LABELS NRA BLUE EAGLE
Source: Jean JeanVintage and on Etsy
WHEN USED: 1933 to 1935
LOOK FOR … The National Recovery Administration (NRA) symbol of a navy blue eagle anywhere on your union label. The label’s overall design differed based on whether it was a jacket, hat, handbag (shown above) or piece of lingerie.
BACKGROUND: A garment with a blue eagle on its union label means it was produced under the safe and fair working conditions of Franklin D. Roosevelt’s National Recovery Administration, developed during the Great Depression to create more jobs by forming unions.
Here’s a promotional video from 1933 about the NRA, thanks to Jean Jean Vintage.
UNION LABELS CONSUMER’S PROTECTION LABEL on HATS
WHEN USED: 1938 to 1950s
LOOK FOR … a blue & white label with the words “Fair Labor Standards” and “Consumers’ Protection Label” on a vintage hat.
BACKGROUND: After US Congress declared FDR’s NRA law unconstitutional as part of his New Deal program in 1935, labeling changed to reflect rebranding after the Fair Labor Standards Act was passed in 1938.
The name changed, but the idea renamed the same: All pieces with the Consumer’s Protection Label were made under fair working conditions (workers paid at least minimum wage, time and half for overtime and no employment of minors in oppressive work environments).
UNION LABELS NATIONAL RECOVERY BOARD for COATS & SUITS
WHEN USED: 1938 to 1964
LOOK FOR … a scalloped circle which says “COAT AND SUIT INDUSTRY” with “NATIONAL RECOVERY BOARD” encircled around.
Flip the label over (shown above), and you’ll find the words “Consumers’ Protection Label.”
Hint: I found this specific label on a 1940s coat along the bottom side seam.
BACKGROUND: The National Labor Relation’s Act encouraged growth in stateside unions to create more jobs during the economic crisis of the ’30s.
The Coat & Suit Industry union was born out of FDR’s New Deal Coalition.
UNION LABELS NEW YORK CREATION DRESS INSTITUTE
Source: nowandthenstyle on Etsy
WHEN USED: 1940 to 1955
LOOK FOR … an illustrated NYC skyline with the words “NEW YORK CREATION” and “N.Y. Dress Institute.”
The union was operated under the standards of the ILGWU, but clothing with ILGWU union labels didn’t have a New York Creation label as well, and vice versa. Therefore, I consider N.Y. Institute union a separate entity from the ILGWU.
BACKGROUND: The city of New York and the ILGWU developed the “N.Y. Dress Institute” as a marketing label to promote the Big Apple as a hub of fashion production.
Consumers were encouraged to buy clothing with this label because they knew it was made by the stylish eyes of garment workers in the Big City. This is the group that began Mercedes Benz Fashion Week as we know it today!
UNION LABELS AMALGAMATED WORKERS OF AMERICA
WHEN USED: 1934 to 1976 (above, from a 1949-1962 garment)
LOOK FOR … a rectangular label with a sewing machine illustration and within the label’s design, the words “AMALGAMATED WORKERS OF AMERICAN” and “UNION MADE.”
The garment is always identified on the label. Either “suit,” “workwear” or generic “garment” will be listed.
There are five different Amalgamated Workers of America (ACWA) union labels. For a full description of how to identify them from 1934-1936, 1936 -1939, 1939-1949, 1949-1962 and 1962-1976, visit the Steel Zipper’s guide.
BACKGROUND: The ACWA was founded in the early 1900s as a men’s suiting and workwear union, which it remained the primary producer of through 1976 when it merged with the Textile Workers of America.
The ACWA was the largest manufacturer of men’s clothing from the 1920s through the early ’70s, which is why these labels are useful when identifying the era of men’s vintage clothing.
UNION LABELS ILGWU
Read my guide on International Ladies’ Garment Worker’s union labels to learn how their identification helps when dating the era of your women’s vintage clothing.
Thank you to the Family Vintage Jewels for loaning vintage clothing for creation of this article.
MORE ON UNION LABELS & DATING VINTAGE
QUICK TIPS: How to Know Your Clothing is Vintage
CLUES: How to Date Vintage Clothing by Construction
THRIFT: 3 Ways to Identify Vintage Clothing Labels
ILGWU LABELS: A Breakdown of the ILGWU Label Designs by Era
PLUS: 11 Ways to Know It’s Vintage by Labels & Tags
UPDATE: 13 Tips for Dating Vintage Clothing Labels
VINTAGE FASHION BOOKS I RECOMMEND
Vintage Fashion: Collecting & Wearing Designer Classics
The Little Guide to Vintage Fashion Shopping
New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style
ONLINE RESOURCES
The Vintage Fashion Guild’s NRA Union Label Guide
The Vintage Fashion Guild’s N.Y. Institute Label Guide
The Vintage Fashion Guild’s National Recovery Board Label Guide
The Steel Zipper ACWA Union Label Guide
Thanks for any help you can give me. I have a wide brimmed tilt hat with a union label – “United Hatters Cap & Millinery Wrks” with the production # – 794814
– I read your comment below but not sure how to date the hat since the production # is different than you give below?
The key difference between this label and older versions is a production number (“785641″) and IN U.S.A. with a small “6″ next to what looks like a squished globe.
In your article How Union Labels Help to Date Your Vintage Clothing
July 27th, 2012
WHEN USED: 1934-1983
LOOK FOR … “United Hatters Cap & Millinery Wrks” on top of a globe and handshake design with “Int Union” below.
The key difference between this label and older versions is a production number (“785641″) and IN U.S.A. with a small “6″ next to what looks like a squished globe.
DOES THIS MEAN THE LABEL WITH THE PRODUCTION # IS FROM THE 1930’S ???????
I have an old Harley-Davidson cap which I believe to be from the 50s with a Union label that has a serial number or sequence number of 3527663 with the letter N above it and then the seal or trademark that says United hatters cap and military workers registered above that.
I have a bucket style rabbit fur hat, it has the label with the hand shake. My question is , my hat has a white label with Doris Designer on it, who is Doris? How can I find out about that part. Thanks
I have a coat with a similar label, thanks to your article I know a little more its history(story)! Thank you again =D
I have a white satin hat with the hatters uniun logo with the no#357111.please email me and tell me if ive found a treasure
I have a soft beige, crushed velvet hat with a Marshall Field & Company tag. Underneath the size tag (22), there is the union label tag (United Hatters Cap & Millinery Wrks) with the number “7722”. On the opposite side of that is the word “MADE”, the squished globe with the number “6” next to it. Could you possibly give me some sort of time period? And tell me what the approximate price might have been at the time of purchase? I appreciate any help greatly.
I have a union hatters cap size 7 1/8 number is DT 183596 my it was given to my grandfather by one of the Beatles an it being my grandfather he don’t know which one it was but I am trying to find a price on this hat if you have any idea or can help me in anyway find the info I need cause it is possible that it could be registered to the Beatle that bought it. But I am 100% it was a Beatles
I have a dress with a Lavin label. On the back of the washing instructions is an Amalgamated Workers of America symbol. There is no RN number. Is this authentic? If so, about what year would this dress have been made? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
I have a dress with a Lanvin label. On the back of the washing instructions is an Amalgamated Workers of America symbol. There is no RN number. Is this authentic? If so, about what year would this dress have been made? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
I have a fur coat ILGWU 694119 it’s this a real workers union
I have a coast of ILGWU 318469. Do you know what’s the year?
Tks
Hello! I have a (seemingly) faux fur vintage swing coat.
The women’s union label dates it to 55-63. But on the flip side, is a coat union stamp. Which I do not know how to date, because it has no relevant back markings.
Is this combination of labels common? Too bad I can’t submit photos in a comment.
Hello! I have a 100% camels hair coat with a national recovery board coat and suit industry tag stamped with by 863674. How old is it and is it worth anything possibly?
Hello and thank you for this post! I am so glad I found it! I have a coat that is a camels hair and fine wool blend. It has the exact same label that your suit has. I couldn’t find any useful information on it anywhere. Would you mind taking a few moments to email me and let me know what I have and how I might be able to get it appraised? Also, id love to hear from others who have the same coat or anyone who may know a little something about this. Anyone who can give me any information at all, please email me! [email protected] thank you again for this post, and thanks in advance for your help everyone!
Do I have a treasure?
Union Hatters with stitched tag ‘JP 815095’ with the squished globe and 6. Beautiful brown felt flapper hat with leather trim and bow. Thanks!
Hi. Thank you for the helpful information. I have a men’s overcoat made by the AMALGAMATED GARMENT WORKERS OF AMERICA, which I believe later became the AMALGAMATED CLOTHING WORKERS OF AMERICA. It has a rectangular label in it with a sewing machine illustration in the center.The Number: 835474 is in red on the left-hand side. The label reads, ISSUED BY AUTHORITY OF AMALGAMATED GARMENT WORKERS OF AMERICA, “UNION MADE,” GENERAL EXECUTIVE BOARD with the Number 60. On the right-hand side, it reads, “COPYRIGHT” with, I believe, a year, which is Illegible. Below that, it reads, “SERIES GFJ.” I believe this coat was made between 1895 and 1914, but I’ll be very interested to know more precise information regarding the exact year. If you would like, I could send you a photocopy of the Label. Any information you have regarding this coat will be greatly appreciate. Thank you so much.
I have a long black ladies coat. The label is the ILGWU, INT. LADIES GARMENT WORKERS UNION. On the reverse side of the label says, NATIONAL BOARD, COAT AND SUIT INDUSTRY. A few more words I can see and ID number 96515? Can’t see the end numbers. Can you date this and lead me to more info on its possible value?
I have a beautiful red velvet coat with satin lining that has the vintage union label. The coat is in immaculate condition. The tag was seen into the seam of the lining and I couldn’t find any information from the part that was showing. The label was seen mostly inside the liner. I popped a stitch and it came out and then I started to research it. I fear I made a mistake by doing that but I had no idea what the tag said. I’d like to know more about it.
I have a hat that looks like the yellow hat listed above under the “United Hatters Cap & Millinery Wrks” on top of a globe and handshake design with “Int Union” below. section, but the production number is 115269. Do you have any idea how old this hat is?
Hi I have some vintage Union Made hats that I would like to get dated. I have been thinking of donating them to the highs chool drama program but would like to know what I have first if I sent pics could u help me?
I have a 40″ black ladies coat with 3/4 inch sleeves. in pristine condition. It’s more of an A-line style with two large buttons to close it. The sleeves and collar are lined with black fur. It smells like real fur, but it was a gift so I am unsure. This was given to my mother back in 1985, from a friend that worked in Washington DC with all the “politicians wives.” The label looks like the ILGWU, INT. LADIES GARMENT WORKERS UNION one from the 1955 to 1963 era. On the reverse side of the label says, NATIONAL BOARD, COAT AND SUIT INDUSTRY. Could you assist me to date this item and determine the possible value? Also, I’m not sure where to go to sell this item. My mother and father nearly 80 years old, so i’m trying to help them downsize to prepare for senior/assisted living. I will gladly send you pictures. Thanks so much.
Hi, i ran across your blog when i did a search of vintage labels. My mom had a coat, can’t figure out where it came from, maybe my grandmother… Anyways, i would love to send you pics of the label and the coat, and see if there’s a chance you could help identify the age and maybe lead me in the right direction of finding its worth.
Thanks so much!!
~Kristen
I have an old ladies hat with an old union label on the inside
Hi, I have a jacket that had the UNION LABELS NATIONAL RECOVERY BOARD for COATS & SUITS label on it, but all I can find for the brand is a shoe company. The label says Bass New York and it’s black and white with bass larger and in black against white and New York the opposite. Is that familiar to you? Thanks!
I have a tan wool cape that’s lined with brown piping and 3 buttons at the top. The lsbel in blue has DM 751667, National Board Coat and Suit Industry. The other label is the ILGWU in blue with a needle from left top to bottom right. I think it might be from 1959 to 1963 from the label. I’m donating to the church auction and would love to have an idea of worth.
I have a pair of my dad’s baby wool pants. He was born in 1929. Issued by United Garment Workers. Tag number 5010891.
I have a coat I would love some help identifying, the only tag in it is for National Board Suit and Coat Industry 919152 and I cannot find any information about it or anything like it.
Need help i have a blue velvet coat that I got when I was a child. It came from my grandma’s friend, who was at least 90. This was 30 years ago. Still in realy good condition. Tag international ladies garment workers union. AFL-CIO. Other side CO 98954 national coat and suit