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This post will help you to identify and understand the style value of your ’20s clothing garments as identified by the most prominent trends of the decade. That way, you can purchase or sell ’20s garments (not to be confused with the styles of ’30s clothing) with better knowledge of their current and future market value.

By 1924, hemlines had risen to the knee, waistlines dropped below the hips and the arms and back were exposed to attract the attention of male admirers on the dance floor. No longer trapped by oxygen-sucking corsets, the ’20s female could adorn herself in metallic thread, sequined beading and shimmery lame when she hit the town all wild ‘n fancy free. Oh, to return to this decade and learn the Charleston in the dark shadows of a speakeasy! I look at the ’20s as an era of mysterious, almost devilish romanticism. How do you feel about ’20s fashion and style?

Share your thoughts (or links to your ’20s garments!) in the comments below the post, or by saying hello on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram or by subscribing to my newsletter!

xx, SD

20s FLAPPER CLOTHING TRENDS

20s Flapper Clothing Trend #1: La Garconne Dresses

Dress Available from Hinesite Vintage

La Garconne dresses were cut short and straight to de-emphasize a woman’s curves. Uneven split hems and handkerchief hems (as shown above) along with Egyptian and Art Deco inspired prints, pleated skirt panels and knife pleats, low-cut necks and backs and pockets, buttons and belts are just a few examples of what characterizes a true “flapper style” dress of the era.

The name “La Garconne” is translated in French to “boyish, cross-gendered look.” Woman would actually tape their breasts so to appear chestless like a boy!

Despite the ’20s flapper looking like the opposite sex, the words’ origins can be traced to 17th century definition as a slang word for prostitute!

SELLING VALUE: $300-$600 for wearable 1920s flapper dresses on Etsy. Many sellers use “flapper dress” as a keyword, so be wary when shopping of what a true flapper dress is.

OWN IT: 1920s Flapper Dress, $525 by The Paraders Vintage / 1920s Flapper Dress, $425 by Dear Golden

20s Flapper Clothing Trend #2: Egyptian Style

Coat Available from Hinesite Vintage

King Tut’s tomb was discovered in November 1922, spinning the world into a fashion frenzy of “Tutmania.” Textile companies sent representatives to the excavation sites in Egypt for firsthand inspiration and the result was a little bit of Egypt a la hieroglyphics, lotus flowers, the scarab beetle, mummies and sphinxes  on everything from jewelry accessories to makeup compacts, cigarette holders and even Egyptian Lotus branded footwear!

SELLING VALUE: Examples of 1960s Egyptian revival clothing retail from approximately $30 (tops) to $150 (dresses/coats). An authentic 1920s Egyptian revival piece will retail for far greater, however because these are museum quality, designer made pieces that  are so rare in the resell world that I couldn’t find an authentic example listed on Etsy.

OWN IT: 1960s Egyptian Print Crop Top, $30 by Hyacinth Vintage  / 1960s Egyptian Print Coat, $115 by Thrush Vintage

’20s Clothing Trend #3: Oriental Style

Top Available from Hinesite Vintage

In the early 1920s, France staged expositions of art and products of their colonies (like Morocco), and it was these exhibitions which introduced Parisian fashion designers to the intriguing exoticism of the Orient, which would later be romanticized in film and the flapper era of the ’20s. Beyond the paper parasols we so often associate with the era,  Asian motif designs (like the floral silk sleeveless top from Hinesite Vintage above) to the more quintessential Asian inspired lounging dresses (below left) and Kimono style jackets (below right) were worn by women in the 1920s.

SELLING VALUE: Searching 1920s oriental clothing on Etsy returns a small selection of pieces $500+, with the exception of this little gem being sold for $55. 

OWN IT: 1920s Oriental Lace Dress, $595 by Fab Gabs  / 1920s Oriental Kimono, $400 by Fab Gabs

20s Flapper Clothing Trend #4: Tea Dresses

Dress Available from Hinesite Vintage

Tea dresses were first popular in the 1870s and remained so until the 1930s, when the formality of having afternoon tea lessened and an outfit change was no longer necessary to sip Lipton with your girlfriends. The 1920s tea dress looked nothing like that of the late 1800s, which resembled more medieval renaissance garb. The tea dress of the ’20s was romantic and often designed with floral motifs and from light chiffon materials for ease of movement and relaxation during one’s tea break. Typically a tea dress has no defined waist, as it was intended to be worn without a corset (a freedom of fashion popular in the 1920s). Read this history of the Tea Gown by the Dreamstress for more facts on how the tea dress was worn from the 1800s – 1930s.

SELLING VALUE: $200 – $400 when searching 1920s tea dress on Etsy. Chiffon styles (like those shown above) tend to be more valuable.

OWN IT:  1920s Floral Chiffon Tea Dress, $425 by Vintage Blue Moon / 1920s Rose Chiffon Tea Dress, $425 by Vintage Blue Moon 

20s Flapper Clothing Trend #5: Sequins

Dress Available from Hinesite Vintage

Sequins embellished dresses were worn by the young, fancy and free  ’20s child because their shimmer and shine drew a looker’s eyes to the body of its wearer. Like a ’70s diva rocked a sequin jumpsuit to shine below the disco ball and meet her dance partner, the flapper female’s sequin dress was worn for the attention-seeking purposes of attracting the opposite sex. During this era of liberated fashion and sexuality, sequins were one of many ways the female fashionista fearlessly strutted her stuff.

SELLING VALUE:  Searching Etsy for 1920s sequin dress actually returns many ’80s does ’20s styles, since the 1980s was known for its sequin obsession, too! Many flapper style dresses were adorned with sequins, so searching flapper dress will give a larger pool of shining examples. An authentic and top quality flapper dress of high quality sequin beaded craftsmanship can retail for $1,000+ on Etsy.

OWN IT:  1920s Sequin Beaded Dress, $525 by Ian Drummond Vintage / 1920s Sequin Beaded Dress, $495 by Wild at Heart Vintage

20s Flapper Clothing Trend #6: Velvet

Coat Available from Hinesite Vintage

Velvet’s popularity represented the ’20s passion for luxury. “Burnout” velvet was an invention of the decade, when a chemical is applied to the velvet and fibers are literally burned off, only leaving the silk fibers in a semi-transparent design behind. An outerwear style trend of the ’20s, shapeless, almost blanket-like “Opera coats” were made from velvet material. Designer Mariano Fortuny is known for revolutionizing the trend of the velvet ’20s coat. When the ’60s did ’20s fashion, the burnout velvet mini dress was a popular reproduction piece and a style still easy to find and wear today.

 

SELLING VALUE: Top quality 1920s velvet dresses range from $300-$800, with a few gems listed at $1,000+. I was shocked to find this ’20s velvet gem listed for only $78! Someone snatch her up before it’s too late! Top notch, modern looking 1920s velvet coats hit roughly the $300-$500 range.

OWN IT: 1920s Burnout Velvet Dress, $425 by Vera Vague  / 1920s Pink Velvet Opera Coat, $525 by Boudoir Queen

20s Flapper Clothing Trend #7: Handkerchief Hems

Dress Available from Hinesite Vintage

Handkerchief hems were a flirty design element to the rising hemline of the ’20s dress, when a dress’ skirt falls at different points along the hemline creating an assymetrical (i.e. not straight) scarf effect. I think that the hem design was popular because it gracefully showed more skin while also covering some of it within the same hem. Perhaps it was a safe middle ground for the ’20s girl who wanted to be a tease without causing too much trouble!

SELLING VALUE: Wearable 1920s handkerchief hem dresses range from $200 – $500. I did find one for $60, but with stains, tears and other imperfections.

OWN IT: 1920s Handkerchief Hem Dress, $228 by The Greedy Seagull / 1920s Handkerchief Hem Sequin Dress, $450 by Go Vintage Go 

20s Flapper Clothing Trend #8: Dropwaists

Dress Available from Hinesite Vintage

Next to the La Garconne dress, the dropwaist dress is perhaps the most definitive “new” look of this fashion-forward era. A dropwaist is quite literal in its name: The waistline is dropped to at or slightly below the hips and because of this design creates a straight, waistless silhouette. ’20s dresses often emphasized the dropwaist with a bit of decorative adornment where it lay (see photo above) or the placement of buttons, belts or pockets (below right).

SELLING VALUE:  $200-$350 for most styles returned when searching 1920s dropwaist dress on Etsy

OWN IT:  1920s Dropwaist Dress, $365 by Go Vintage Go / 1920s Dropwaist Dress, $385 by Simplicity Is Bliss

20s Flapper Clothing Trend #9: Art Deco Design

Dress Available from Hinesite Vintage

Art Deco emerged in the ’20s as a form of fashion and architectural design escapism into a hypothesized future of geometric lines, swirls and asymmetrical angles. New York City’s Chrysler Building is one of the most notable pieces of Art Deco architecture. Look for deep lines in the designs of an Art Deco garment (like the rosettes shown above) or beading used to make swirls (bottom left) circles, starbursts or just avant garde, unnameable shapes (bottom right).

SELLING VALUE: 1920s Art Deco dresses with the strongest influences of this popular motif range from $500 – $1,200+ (like this gorgeous ’20s sequin gem) The example above is being sold at a steal by Hollie Point. I hope you consider giving her a happy home!

OWN IT: 1920s Art Deco Design Dress, $248 by Hollie Point / 1920s Art Deco Design Dress, $750 by Bella Soiree 

20s Flapper Clothing Trend #10: Tiered Skirts

Dress Available from Hinesite Vintage

Double to triple tiered skirts aren’t as remembered for their fashion revolution as the dropwaist or the shortened hemline of the flapper dress, but they were special in that they captured a the era’s penchant for pleating and feminine sportswear. The photos below typify the tiered skirt look, which was slightly pleated to strongly “knife” pleated (bottom left) and sat below a dropped waist. The left dress is made from rayon crepe and was worn by a fashion-forward flapper female in her day, while the dress on the right is a light novelty print not fancy enough for evening activities and so was probably a knock-off style handsewn and worn by those who couldn’t afford the real deal.

SELLING VALUE: Searching 1920 tiered hem on Etsy doesn’t give the best search results. I found the above dresses simply looking at 1920s dresses as a whole. As you can see, the prices vary from $90 (right – snatch this one up!) to on average, approximately $300 for a quality tiered hem ’20s dress.

OWN IT: 1920s Tiered Red Crepe Dress, $358 by Hollie Point / 1920s Tiered Novelty Print Dress, $90 by Living Threads Vintage 

MORE 1920s CLOTHING TRENDS

TRENDS: 1920s Fashion Trends as Seen on Boardwalk Empire, The Artist & The Great Gatsby

RALPH LAUREN: How He Channeled ’20s Style for Spring 2012

TURBANS: A Quintessential ’20s Accessory Styled 4 Ways

FROM OUR PARTNERS

FASHION: How to Make Your Own 1920s Dress (Book!)

VINTAGE FASHION CLUB: More on ’20s Fashion History from UK Vintage Lovers

FILM: The ’20s Style of The Great Gatsby Movie by Baz Luhrmann

PLUS: Where to Buy 1920s Clothing on Etsy